All the clips in this directory should be treated as a single movie, the camera is somewhat old
and cannot take very long movies so I had to use a few in sequence to capture the process of
customizing the gauge cluster.

The video starts out with e6tuner running in offline mode, I select ECU model and video mode and
then you get the predefined gauge layout on the driving gauge page.

Then I press 'c' to enter configure mode, you can see the gauges all get outlines drawn so you can
see their boundaries.  The 'active' gauge being edited gets a red outline, where the others get
white outlines.

I then press the space bar a few times to cycle through the gauges until I have selected the
tachometer.  Using Alt + arrow keys I shrink the tachometer down to the desired size.  Then I
move the tachometer down and towards the center with the arrow keys.  I hold down shift sometimes
while pressing arrow keys to make it go faster.  Without shift, the changes are incremental (1
pixel at a time), if you add shift it gose twice as fast (2 pixel steps).  This helps when making
large changes otherwise it can take a while to do things like move accross the entire screen.

Next I hit space to select the speedometer gauge, I shrink its size just like with the tachometer and
move it over so it's sharing some space with the tachomter.  The drawing order is alerady such that
the speedometer is drawn over the tachometer so I don't need to do anything special.  If the
tacometer were obscuring the speedometer where they share screen space, I would just press the
page up key until the speedometer was 'higher' than the tachomter in the drawing list.  This would
be clearly visible by the speedometer being visible over the tachometer where it was previously
obscured.

Moving on I select the TPS gauge, and move it over by the speedo and tach, using the 's' and 'e'
keys I manipulate it's scales, by holding down both 's' and 'e' I can shift the scale, if I add
the shift key it shifts the scale in the opposite direction.  's' and 'e' manipulate the scale
start and endpoints, if you change both simultaneously it simply shifts the scale.  Using just 's'
or 'e' by itself will shrink or grow the scale by changing only the start or end point.

After getting the scale of the TPS gauge how I want it, I hit space a few times until I have the
tachometer selected, you see after moving the TPS in overlapping with the tachometer I had to fix
the drawing order.  The TPS was being drawn over the tachometer, I could have simply hit page down
to lower the TPS gauge but force of habit made me select the tachometer gauge and hit page up a
couple times until it was drawn over the TPS gauge.  No difference except page down would have been
a more effective way.  I also had to raise the speedometer afterwards so it was overlapping the tach,
just a simple page up on the speedo.

The next gauge I manipulate is the A/F gauge in the lower left, I first grow it's bounding box so it
is wider, you can't see the circular gauge change as a result because those gauges are forced to be
circles, you can't make them oval by making rectangular areas for them.  If you look close you can see
the red box growing without the circular gauge changing.  After making the box wider I hit '2' to
change the gauge type from circular to horizontal bar.  The horizontal bar gauges are used exclusively
on the diagnostic gauges page, but the program is designed in a way that you can change the gauge type
between circular, horizontal bar, and vertical bar, at any time.  The vertical bar code is still being
finished so I don't demonstrate it here.

After changing the AF gauge to a bar guage, I change it's size a bit more and move it to the top of the
screen, initially I thought I would have a large AF gauge accross the top so I put it up there and make
it almost as wide as the screen.  Later in the videos I change my mind and put it back down at the
bottom left.

After playing with the AF gauge, I select the volts gauge and movei t down by the speedo and tach.
More scale manipulation is demonstrated with this gauge, nothing new.  The next gauge I select is
the MAP gauge, on this setup it's a combination vacuum and boost gauge (2 bar), I make it a bar
gauge like with the AF gauge but move it over so it is inside the speedometer gauge.  For a moment
you can't really see the MAP gauge because it is getting drawn below the speedometer, but the outline
is still visible just hard to see in the small video.   The MAP gauge reappears after I hit page up
raising it in the drawing list so it is drawn over teh speedometer.  Then some small refinements are
done to it's placement.

Moving on I take the air temperature gauge and move it down on the otehr side of the tach and speedo,
more scale changes, nothing new.  The same is dones with the water temp gauge, then I take the wide
AF gauge from the top and move it back down like mentioned before.

At this point, I'm happy with the demonstration customized cluster and hit 'c' to leave configure mode,
then to show that this is all being done in e6tuner proper, I hit tab a few times to cycle through the
map editing, diagnostic, and datalog pages, returning to the driving gauges page.  I then hit 'c'
again to re-enter configure mode and start changing things all over again.

I still have to add support for removing & adding gauges, changing the location of the gauge name and
value (or disabling display of them altogether), and changing the font and font size per gauge.

- swivel@pengaru.com